Not everyone is honest or ethical, no matter how long they've been breeding or how many accolades
they claim. So, please do your homework! Make an educated, well-informed decision.
When it comes to larger breed dogs such as the Aatu Tamaskan, make sure that health testing (such
as hip scoring and CERF testing, at minimum) has been performed by the breeder. All U.S. hip scoring should be shown
on the OFA (http://www.offa.org/) website. This is public information and you should not just take the breeder's word for it. (They should
show you the paperwork if you have not found it on the databases.) PennHIP testing is not publicly accessible (yet) but
can be accessed by a PennHIP veterinarian, and the breeder should be able to show you the original paperwork. If the
parents of the puppies you are purchasing are not properly tested, you are setting yourself up for possible issues later.
GET IT ALL IN THE BEGINNING! Ask for the history, and make sure you are satisfied! ALL ethical
breeders sincerely interested in the care and future of their dogs will have their dogs screened to avoid passing on any genetic
or health issues to the puppies and future generations. Unfortunately, we have already run into this more than once
with the U.S. dogs and some registered and founding breeders, one of the reasons we have separated from the TDR.
********************
DON'T SETTLE: When a breed becomes
popular, many times people capitalize on the sudden opportunity when demand far exceeds the supply. Do
not fall prey to filling demand when numbers are few. This is another reason we have separated from the TDR. Because
there has been a lack of breeders with breeding dogs or available puppies, some breeders have knowingly sent puppies with
health issues without telling the purchaser. Worse yet, they have failed to offer any compensation to the purchaser
or even a healthy puppy. Just because someone has a lot of dogs [or puppies available] does not make them an ethical
breeder. Do ALL your homework, and do not rush into anything. Get a full health history on the puppy, dam, sire
and pedigree. Contact different breeders, do your own research (for facts, not opinion), go with your gut, and wait
for the right puppy for you. And visit the breeder's home or demand to see pictures of where the dogs are kept.
If you do wind up getting something from overseas, you should also check with the local authorities about any complaints that
may have been filed against a breeder, especially an establishment with a lot of dogs.
The Tamaskan Breeders Association (TBA) will work with existing and future breeders committed to seeing the Aatu
Tamaskan succeed through honest, ethical and forthright practices, promoting success through a healthy breed. Breeders
and members are listed HERE.
The TBA requires DNA, hip and eye testing (at a minimum).
We also encourage elbows and patellas, as well as a full work-up on breeding animals. Further, the TBA is developing a standard
for the Aatu Tamaskan in view of adjustments to be made through further selective breeding to create a more wolflike appearance.
WHEN CAN A FEMALE BREED? Any reputable breeder will tell you (and you will read), a good
and ethical breeder whose interest is for the best health and care of their animals will NOT
breed their female before 18 months or the third heat cycle (whichever is first), and after ALL health testing has been performed to ensure it is safe. This gives the bitch
time to mature. If you are looking to purchase a pup from a breeder whose bitch is not yet at least 18 months, and if
the breeder cannot provide documented proof of health testing having been performed, you should question their integrity and
why they are breeding their female so early. (There are those that have bred their females at 8-12 months of age, and
the next heat cycle too.) Most likely, it's just for money. And this
is more the case when it comes to little supply and big demand. Remember, price (either low or high)
does not indicate quality or a “deal”.
PUPPY MILLS and COMMERCIAL BREEDERS – WHY WORRY?: There are different definitions of what can be and is considered a "puppy
mill". Most people picture a puppy mill as a bunch of dogs kept in inappropriately sized cages, and typically being
underfed. However, this is not always the case. A puppy mill isn’t just about a filthy situation or the
number of puppies produced in a single year, or about where puppies are sold, but about a philosophy – namely the ultimate
pursuit to make money (is breeding and selling puppies the only thing your prospective breeder does? how many dogs do they
have? what do they do with their dogs when they are not breedable?). The 1973 edition of Merriam-Webster's
dictionary defined puppy mill as "a commercial farming operation in which dogs are
raised in large numbers". It can also be a “breeding
facility that produces puppies in large numbers”. In 2003,
the definition was amended to “any place where puppies are produced for financial gain … Your neighbor’s
home could just as easily serve as a puppy mill.” So, how is one to recognize a puppy mill?
A puppy mill may have several different breeds available, whereas a responsible,
ethical breeder typically specializes in one or two breeds. A puppy mill will always
have puppies for sale, and will have multiple, simultaneous litters, sometimes several litters a month.
Breeding is done solely for financial gain rather than protection
of breed integrity [does the breeder work outside of the home, or is breeding their sole source of income?]. The American
Kennel Club does label a commercial breeder as one who "breeds dogs as a business, for profit" and a hobby
breeder as "one who breeds purebred dogs occasionally to justifiably improve the breed, not for purposes of primary income."
Remember too that anyone can forge or doctor up false documentation to show AKC or other registry.
“Responsible breeders raise their
animals with the intent to produce a healthy dog, and to provide a quality pet for responsible owners.[5]
Good breeders will take into consideration
breed-specific health problems, genetic screening, physical condition, age of the dog and temperament before producing litters. A good breeder will carefully nurture the mothers and the puppies they produce. They will constantly check the puppies for
health ailments, and ensure they are properly socialized.[6] Before placing puppies in their homes, breeders screen potential customers rigorously, and will often provide
a pedigree. A good breeder should provide at least a two year health guarantee with their puppies, and one that does not require the
return of a pup. They will provide new owners with all the information necessary for caring for their puppy." –
Wikipedia
The National Companion Animal Coalition defines puppy
mills as a high-volume, sub-standard dog breeding operation, which sells purebred or mixed-breed dogs, to unsuspecting
buyers [do your homework!!]. Licensed commercial kennels are known in the industry as puppy mills.
Characteristics common to puppy mills include: sub-standard health and/or environment issues; sub-standard animal
care, treatment and/or socialization; sub-standard breeding practices which lead to genetic defects or hereditary disorders;
and erroneous or falsified certificates of registration, pedigree, and/or genetic background.
Puppy brokers, also known as puppy
mill representatives, know well how to market themselves to potential buyers and will prey upon
an individual’s lack of knowledge. They will pass themselves off as persons who care about the dogs and wish to protect
the integrity of a given breed.
A trend among puppy
brokers is to present dogs as quality imports which come from “healthier, studier” European lines. Such claims
of lines being healthier are often false and these may be dogs purchased from overseas puppy mills. The only way to safeguard
against possible medical problems is screening for genetic defects within a breeder’s program. Ask for health clearances
and get them in writing.
There are two factors which allow
a puppy broker/puppy mill to do business: your ignorance and your impatience to have a dog of a certain breed. If you want a quality, healthy dog, do not allow these things
to be used against you! Educate yourself and be patient! You could pay for your impatience for the next 15 years.
Puppy brokers always have dogs available. How is this? If they don’t
have one in stock for you today, they will have one for you shortly. They just happen to know of a great litter from champion
lines about to be ready for new homes! Use common sense! Breeding is
not an overnight process!
Champion Dog Lines – Maybe Not. Is the seller claiming
your potential puppy is of champion bloodlines? In the internet age, it has become common for puppy brokers to take photos
of champion dogs from the sites of reputable kennels and claim that these are the parents of their puppies. Often the
actual owners of the sire and dam have no idea that their dogs are being used in this way. Contact them. If a puppy broker
will not give you contact information, search the internet and get in touch with them yourself. Good breeders will not hesitate
to speak to you about their litters. We can not stress enough how often this happens. When you see things that don't
add up, go with your gut. It's usually right!
Please do
not support this growing industry of puppy mill re-sellers. There are many ways to determine if you are purchasing from someone
wanting to make a quick profit. Do your research, and make an educated decision on where your puppy will be coming from.
WHAT’S BEST FOR YOU?
If we were to discuss what's best for the dogs, it's certainly for them to be bred only by people who will take
excellent care of parents and pups. Great suffering in dogs is alleviated when breeders refrain from reproducing genetic problems.
Only breeders who put the welfare of the dogs ahead of profit make these difficult decisions. To learn how to make the right
decisions, responsible breeders work with experienced mentors and
do a great deal of study.
Such a discussion would also include
the inhumanity of keeping a dog in a cage for a life whose sole purpose is to produce puppies for human profit. [Have you
seen the breeder's kennel/premises either in person or by verifiable pictures? How are the living conditions?
Are the dogs stressed with overcrowding?] Every puppy purchased from such a source is a powerful vote. That purchase
makes it profitable to breed the parent dogs again, and the cycle of suffering continues. This suffering not only affects
the dogs, but their purchasers as well.
When you see a puppy, you
don't see that suffering. It's easy to think that suffering that happens in commercial breeding has nothing to do
with you. Sadly, chances are good that you and the puppy will become part of the sad cycle of suffering. Genetics play a huge
role in dog temperament, as do the experiences of the first several weeks of life. Getting your puppy from a responsible breeder
is not only a socially responsible thing to do, but also the best way to wind up with a healthy puppy that grows into a healthy
and happy dog.
In the end, don’t
get caught up in the notoriety of owning a specific breed and foregoing the most important thing: your research and
making the educated choice! If all you’re getting is a puppy and nothing more from the breeder, then ask
yourself why. [Get references and talk to prior purchasers. If you have a doubt, don't fear hesitation.] A
responsible breeder will screen for responsible owners. When responsible breeders work with responsible owners, then
everyone – but especially the animals – wins!
AT
WHAT AGE IS THE "BREEDER" ENCOURAGING YOU TAKE THE PUPPY HOME? It is standard practice by an ethical breeder
to not let a puppy leave its mother and littermates until 8 weeks old. Some opt for 9-12 weeks. Whether the puppy is
still nursing or not, these early weeks are a critical time to the puppy's socialization and learning, as it is still
discovering things and learning critical things from its mother. If this is the "crock" that the person
you're dealing with is giving you ... RUN THE OTHER WAY!!!
Just be aware of the environment of the puppy you are purchasing. And, when in doubt, it's
always safer to walk away! Visit the breeder where possible (even if it means a weekend trip).
If you are considering importing from overseas, get pictures and references.
LACK OF ETHICS vs. LACK OF EXPERIENCE: Do not
let the amount of time someone has or has not been breeding fool you into a false sense of security. Just because someone
has been breeding or showing dogs for 20, 30 or more years does not make them a person of integrity or ethics, especially
when that is their continued fallback line to gain your trust. What have other breeders who have dealt with this
person said over the years as to their honesty and integrity? What kind of puppies has this person produced and sold?
What types of health issues have there been in that breeder's stock? What kind of steps have been taken to eradicate
health issues within their breeding stock? What about accurate reporting of prior generations
names, backgrounds and health? Has breeding stock been properly health tested?
If puppies with genetic defects have been sold, has the breeder made good on the issues through
a refund or replacement? Are they willing to provide you with health documentation if you cannot find it publicly?
Or are they telling you that paperwork, etc. doesn't matter? Is breeding the breeder's sole source of income
or do they have a job (or does the spouse) outside of the home?
Then there are those who may lack years of formal
breeding experience but have as main focus what should be the sole reason for breeding: Improving
on the breed. What are the breeder's goals and visions for the future of the breed? Why is this breeder
involved in breeding, and why that particular breed? What kind of research has been done and actions taken to promote and continue a healthy
breed and breeding program? What kind of research have they done into the breed
they are breeding to be a knowledgeable source of accuration information to prospective purchasers? Are they knowledgeable? What kind
of testing have they done? What kind of screening process has been implemented? What other protocols have been
implemented to ensure puppies are going to the right homes, and what has been established to follow-up with the puppy throughout
its life?
These and other questions will help you determine if you wish a breeder with ethics or one who
claims to be ethical. NO ONE ever arrives. There is a constant learning
curve. If one professes to know it all, or continues to make claims of what a great breeder they are because of the
amount of time they’ve been breeding, you should question why.
Ninety-nine percent (99%) of the above information
has been taken from sites online and research. The information found at http://muttcats.com/articles/puppy_mill.htm is VERY informative and enlightening on what to look for from a caring and ethical breeder. (I strongly
suggest reviewing it.) If it’s all about the sale of the puppy, then you should wonder why. (Is the
breeder running "specials" to get rid of remaining puppies? Is the breeder trying to monopolize prospective
adopters by locking them in to years on a waiting list?) There should be a contract to protect the breeder, purchaser,
and most of all the puppy. The litter’s parents should have had the proper health testing, etc., to ensure their
soundness, as well as the future health of the puppies. In the end, an educated purchaser makes the best purchaser.
Other
articles/sites I found informative on this issue:
http://www.everythingsheltie.com/puppy_mill.htmS
http://www.trojanrottweilers.com/puppymills.htm
http://www.pghdogs.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=628&Itemid=185
http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=1448&S=1&SourceID=47
http://www.njcapsa.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=23&Itemid=51
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080410162424AAiXBqY
