Keep your bitch healthy.  I made it my continued goal that Takeia maintain her weight and not lose weight herself while providing milk to the pups.  To see the neglect that some nursing bitches undergo nutritionally, and how skinny her mom was when I picked her up at 7 weeks, I promised I would not let her look like that and that I would ‘Keep the bitch healthy’!!  I DID NOT want my girl looking like a bag of bones, especially since she has never been an easy keeper.  So, I made sure she was fed at least 4-5 times a day (much of that being handfed), and a large, healthy portion each time.  [I believe making sure the bitch remained healthy played a large part in the fact that the puppies were as big as they were.]

PUPPIES:  ENS Exercises:  Performing Early Neural Stimulation with the puppies from Day 3-16 did not take long (a minute or so each), but I believeit gave them a great start.  And, based on the feedback I have gotten in just a few days of their re-homing, I am confident in their success.

Desensitize your puppies.  Make sure to hold your puppies daily.  Get them used to human touch.  Play with their feet, ears, face, and mouth.  Hold them on their backs to expose their bellies as much as possible as they grow so they are easily managed.  Remember, being on their backs shows submission.  Clip their toenails and hold their feet often.  Desensitize them to make it easier for the owner to handle.  [I WISH I was able to clip Takeia's nails without a fight.  And as for Dakari ... well I'm grateful that I haven't had to clip his nails (just naturally short I guess), as he hates his feet held.]

Deworming:  Puppies were dewormed with Pyrantel weeks 2, 4, 6, 7 & 8.  They never had issues with loose stools.  And to date, there have been no stomach issues reported by any of the new owners.  In fact, vet checks confirm they are healthy.  (Even the vets can’t believe how big they are at such a young age.)

 

Paper training:  These puppies are smart!!!  They all picked up on the paper as soon as I put it out (by 4 1/2 - 5 weeks).  Of course, they're not going to get it right all the time at the beginning, but they should learn to use the paper rather quickly.  In fact, subsequent litters will be started even earlier as experts suggest (by 2-3 weeks, after their eyes have opened), so I will make some minor modifications for subsequent litters.  Since re-homing, only one puppy has used a puppy pad (and only the first day).  So, because of early training and consistency, they transitioned to housebreaking very quickly and easily.

Give them lots of toys and different shaped objects.  Remember, they will start to cut teeth and teethe at just two weeks or so.  So, it is important to provide them with a variety of things that they can play with and get used to.  [I put a water jug in there, stuffed animals, hard rubber rounds, tennis balls, etc., and they gladly played with each.]

Crate training:  We started exposing to their crates around 4 weeks, and actual crate training at about 6 weeks (but they can be started as soon as their eyes open).  I found some inexpensive plastic/travel crates through Craigslist and put them in the whelping box without the door.  They would learn to voluntarily go in and eventually sleep in their during the day. 

Puppy Rules of Seven.  It is important to expose the puppies to different sounds, surfaces, smells, etc. to again desensitize them.  Put them on carpet, linoleum/tile, cement, glass, grass, rubber flooring, gravel, etc.  Let them smell or play with a lemon or orange; spray some freshener in their pen; even just smelling the wind can help.  Introduce them to different types of people (women, men, old folks, children, ethnic friends).  I vacuumed around the puppies; my father used a loud nail gun and compressor while working in the house and in the puppies' presence; play music or the television; drop things; start the car with them in the garage.  Don't 'be quiet' for the puppies' sake ... make noise.  Also, when they are old enough, take them for car rides and get them used to the motion (car sickness is the worst for a dog to have to go through!).  [This was a ‘winter litter’, so there were a few limitations on exposure; but warmer weather litters can certainly be exposed to even more.]  http://www.houhaswissies.com/ruleofsevens.html

A good friend of mine, and breeder, has always said that most puppies/dogs are returned, etc., because the fundamentals being ignored: paper/housetraining and crate training.  I did not want this to be an issue with my puppies.

What I learned is that you can't do it ALL ... but you can do a LOT, if you care enough about the development of the puppies and those that are going to have them for a lifetime.  As difficult as it may be to follow through because you hate to see a puppy cry, if you follow through, they will learn and make the transition to their new home a pleasant experience for all.  A well-behaved, well-trained puppy is a happy puppy who can comfortably spend time with their family. I am happy to say how easily each has transitioned to their new homes, and without incident.  The consistent comment is that they are "so smart!"  And, again, I attribute that not only to the breed mentality, but to proper attention to the puppies from the onset.  I may have been tired in the end, but the results were worth the time and energy. 

Some breeders are of the mentality to let the puppies fend for themselves, or think it’s ok to place puppies with stomach or other issues, or to take the puppies from the pack at an early age (the rule of thumb is no sooner than 8 weeks).  While I certainly could have placed healthy puppies at 7 weeks, I found that the extra week really did make a difference for everyone.  Additionally, I’ve learned that giving shots at 6 weeks is of no benefit but is usually done so that puppies can leave the roost sooner (to their detriment).  That extra time also allows you to really focus on the personalities of the puppies and make sure they are being placed in the right homes.  And, I am very proud to say, all pups were placed with the right family temperamentally. 

You should not get involved in breeding to meet numbers and demand, or to benefit you; you don’t do it for popularity and accolades.  And you certainly don't do it to make money (a good breeder never does) [that's why I have 2 jobs ... to support me and the dogs].  You do it for the benefit of the breed, and the main focus should always be healthy puppies and proper placement.   I’ve seen so many toot their own horns because they’ve been breeding for 30 or 40 years.  But, in reality, their track record speaks volumes, and their lack of ethics is always brought to the fore.  Sometimes it is the “novice breeder” that is the one that remembers the real reasons to get involved in breeding.  It is a continued learning experience, owning up to any mistakes made, and always striving for better!  I will never “arrive”, but will continue to learn and grow.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS:  This was not simply MY litter.  Many were invested emotionally, and others were involved in imparting some knowledge, direction or experience to me so that I could do the best possible.  So, my sincere thanks for all your care and help!  This is a continued learning experience, and each litter and puppy will be different.  So, I will continue my search for knowledge and learning, and I will review everything again for each litter.  But my goal will always remain the same … To better the Aatu breed through exemplary canine husbandry and to provide healthy, well-adjusted puppies to all who come to Ta-Kari.